This is a picture of the two sides being glued to the neck block. The dove-tail slot for the neck is face down on the workboard.

Here is a view of the heel block being glued to the sides. Again here, the top of the sides is against the workboard.

After a night of curing, the sides have been successfully attached to the neck and heel blocks. So far so good.

This is a shot of the back plate just after I finished routing a channel for the herringbone inlay strip. I was able to use the Dremmel for this job. I had an 1/8" bit chucked up and gradually widened the channel with small pieces of plastic shim and masking tape.

Even though it is a little fuzzy, this is a shot of the channel on the back and the inlay strip that will go into it.

Here I have a couple of the clamps and a long caul displayed as I glue the inlay strip into the back channel. I'll let this cure overnight and then work the height of the strip down to the level of the back plate.

Here you see the back plate after the herringbone inlay strip has been glued and leveled.

A close-up of the inlay strip. If you look closely you can see that I have a long way to go as far as inlay skills. But, I am happy with it for a first effort!

This is a shot of the top plate/soundboard with the braces trimmed to let the top plate fit into the side structure.

Here is a detail of the top bracing after it was trimmed ans sanded a bit. It is ready to start the top-to-sides fitting process.

This is a top view of the binding feet being glued into place. These feet will serve as an attachment point for the top plate. And yes, they are clothespins!

Here is a closeup of the binding feet right next to the neck block.